Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: the softest prep?

  1. #1
    4 Cycle Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    southern indiana
    Posts
    28

    the softest prep?

    i want to know what types of prep will cause a burris 33a to be -40 duro?

  2. #2
    4 Cycle Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    southern indiana
    Posts
    28
    i thinking massive amounts of red

  3. #3
    4 Cycle Advanced User
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Marysville, Pa
    Posts
    5,669
    If you need them that low or lower,and I have some lower, 45 cc to 60 cc Internal, get a good many wipes on them in the shop with a medium prep, then cap them with aggressive a few at the shop, then the aggressive and heat at the track.
    Once this is done you will only run those tires on real low bite situations no matter how long they cure out, you cannot only gauge off Durometer.

    Good Luck !!

  4. #4
    4 Cycle Advanced User
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Linden, IN
    Posts
    8,778
    Quote Originally Posted by willamrheawe View Post
    i want to know what types of prep will cause a burris 33a to be -40 duro?
    Our Monster Bite will drop them 2-3 points per wipe.

    Plenty of folks in Indiana kill their tires with goat or green; that'll definitely knock them down that much, but also depletes the oils from the rubber and they'll bounce back up in duro over time.

    I prefer to use something (Monster Bite and/or Black Bite 2.0) that will allow me to re-use the same set of tires if needed that night. The goat/green deal makes them pretty much once and done for the night. Re-applying and re-using those same tires generally gets them sticky like chewing gum and the car loses roll speed.

    -----
    Thanks and God bless,
    Brian Carlson
    Carlson Racing Engines
    Vector Cutz
    www.CarlsonMotorsports.com
    Carlson Motorsports on Facebook
    29 years of service to the karting industry
    Linden, IN
    765-339-4407
    bcarlson@CarlsonMotorsports.com

  5. #5
    4 Cycle Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    southern indiana
    Posts
    28
    ill chech your site but i kinda want them to bounce back because of some track like harder tires where is the prp section

    [SIZE=1]- - - Updated - - -[/SIZE]

    ok thanks

  6. #6
    4 Cycle Advanced User
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Marysville, Pa
    Posts
    5,669
    Quote Originally Posted by willamrheawe View Post
    ill chech your site but i kinda want them to bounce back because of some track like harder tires where is the prp section

    [SIZE=1]- - - Updated - - -[/SIZE]

    ok thanks
    The amount of chemical and harshness it takes to get them down they will never make any speed on a harder track with even medium grip race surface.
    Last edited by racing promotor; 05-14-2018 at 06:30 PM.

  7. #7
    4 Cycle Advanced User
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Marysville, Pa
    Posts
    5,669
    A Burris 33 is one of if not the most chemical sensitive tire there is, once you get harsher chemical down into the tire it won't go on a better gripping surface, don't matter what the duro is, your getting hung up on duro reading to much don't chase duro you'll get all screwed up, learn what to use application method and volume for each track to make speed it's not just wipe them to 40 and go be fast.

  8. #8
    4 Cycle Advanced User
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Linden, IN
    Posts
    8,778
    Just call the shop and I'd be glad to help you personally.

    What Ken said above is right on. Duro is only a part of the equation - and a small part at that.

    If you've goated a tire to knock it way down (10 pts.) in duro, then it will not be fast when you need a hard tire. Now, those goat tires punching 40 this week can be hit again in two weeks and be used again, but they really need to cure/dry out before they will be fast again (even at 40d.)

  9. #9
    4 Cycle Advanced User
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Marysville, Pa
    Posts
    5,669
    Quote Originally Posted by CarlsonMotorsports View Post
    Just call the shop and I'd be glad to help you personally.

    What Ken said above is right on. Duro is only a part of the equation - and a small part at that.

    If you've goated a tire to knock it way down (10 pts.) in duro, then it will not be fast when you need a hard tire. Now, those goat tires punching 40 this week can be hit again in two weeks and be used again, but they really need to cure/dry out before they will be fast again (even at 40d.)
    Here ya GO can't beat this with a stick !! Thanks Brian

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
I would like to thank the following manufacturers and kart shops, whose support make this site possible. If you find yourself in the market for equipment or parts, please check out what they have to offer. -- Bob Evans

AKRA - AKTPA - ARC Racing - Baker Engines - Burris Racing - Cash Racing Engines - Comet Kart - Coyote Chassis - Competition Karting - Dyno Cams - Fairfield MotorSports - Ford's Fuels - GoldSpeedUSA - Hoosier Tires - Inferno Clutch - Jam Promotions - JC Specialty - Jimmy Rivers - Kart City Performance - M&M Performance - Noram Clutches - Palmetto Speed - PEC Power - Performance Manufacturing - Phantom Chassis - RaceCity Race Parts - Roberts Kart Shop - Robertson's Torque Tubes - S&M Kart Supply - Toigo Racing - Trick/Olimpic - Track Tac - TS Racing - Turk Racing - Uncle Frank's - UltraMax Chassis - Waller Racing

Be Tram MotorSports - BMI Karts - Box Stock Project - Charger Chassis - Checkered Flag - Dover Power - Faster Motors - Hewitt Dyno - Platinum Karts - PPR Kart Supply - Rage Karts - RPE Racing - Slack Karts - Smith Racing Enterprises - Southern Express Karting - Target Distributing