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Thread: How to set toe quickly and accuratue

  1. #1
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    How to set toe quickly and accuratue

    I have an accutoe advanced and I always have to go from one side to the other. I set one side where I want it then have to adjust the other. I then come back to the first side and it is off again. I have do this over and over until finally they are both right. Any idea how to speed up this process?

  2. #2
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    If possible get roll on weight table or roll on scale stands. Put the kart on the rear side and roll it onto the scales. with driver in the kart.
    Make sure that all points in the steering linkage are tight and not worn.This includes spindle bearings. If there is any movement in them, It will cause toe to change slightly.

    Check this out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hKF2OwCtqA

    Pay careful attention to what he says, And really listen to the last few comments he makes. Will put your mind at ease.

  3. #3
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    I do set the toe on the scale stand and I do have everything tight. Spindle bearings I actually just replaced. Any idea what is causing this? It takes like an hour to set the toe just going back and forth to get it exact.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJR View Post
    I do set the toe on the scale stand and I do have everything tight. Spindle bearings I actually just replaced. Any idea what is causing this? It takes like an hour to set the toe just going back and forth to get it exact.
    Someone is moving the steering wheel. Even when the pin is in a lock position theres still movement.

  5. #5
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    I also have an Accutoe and got tired very quickly of doing one side, then the other and them back to the other side again. (at a minimum)
    So i bought another unit so i can do both sides at the same time.
    I believe the Accutoe method of aligning off the rear axle is the correct way to do it.
    Since the introduction of front wheel drive cars i doubt any automotive alignment shop ever does just a front wheel alignment anymore.
    Everything is now "4 wheel alignment"
    B FASTER

  6. #6
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    An hour is entirely too long .
    The wheels moving or your stubs are loose or axle issues .
    Or equipment trouble.
    If you set one side disassemble and restet immediately will if stay the same?
    Set one side , set the other and stop.

  7. #7
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    Unless you are dealing with a different pin system than i have been dealing with i find that there is way too much play in the pin system. You might want to drill the hole for the pin large enough for a bolt to go through and put a nut on the back side.
    Here's the way the steering wheel is locked when doing an alignment on you car.
    It sits on the front seat and is spring loaded so that the 2 hooks mesh with the wheel and keep it from moving!
    B FASTER

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by flattop1 View Post
    An hour is entirely too long .
    The wheels moving or your stubs are loose or axle issues .
    Or equipment trouble.
    If you set one side disassemble and restet immediately will if stay the same?
    Set one side , set the other and stop.
    Any idea what it could be. I have a new axle. New wheels hubs/studs. New spindle bearings. It did this the same way before I replaced those items.

  9. #9
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    Tie rod ends are worn and loose,
    Steering shaft bushings are worn and loose.
    Steering lock is worn and loose
    Spindle bolts are worn and loose
    How you attach to the rear axle is loose.
    Etc
    B FASTER

  10. #10
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    First thing exactly how much change are you seeing .
    What chassis, what type spindle. The flat end or the stepped end?
    Set it up . set the toe on one side . Then take the equipment off . Put the equipment back on.
    If it stays the same , your equipment and method of use are fine.
    I have the feeling you're over thinking it.
    Toe is the last thing you set.

  11. #11
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    put you kart on stand not scales, put in steering lock, hold either wheel and wiggle the tire. can you feel any movement? Now put laser on it and then try to wiggle it and see if the toe changes. If it does, there is your problem, then do the same to the rear wheels.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by flattop1 View Post
    First thing exactly how much change are you seeing .
    What chassis, what type spindle. The flat end or the stepped end?
    Set it up . set the toe on one side . Then take the equipment off . Put the equipment back on.
    If it stays the same , your equipment and method of use are fine.
    I have the feeling you're over thinking it.
    Toe is the last thing you set.
    It is usually off around 1/32 - 1/16 or less. It is a Triton chassis with recon spindles.

  13. #13
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    UPDATE

    So I checked it on the stand it isnít the accutoe it checked the same over and over. However the wheel does have a decent amount of play in it even with the steering lock in. The steering lock is tight so idk why it has so much play.

  14. #14
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    Any play in the wheel is going to be multiplied by the laser.
    If you can feel play it should be visible.

  15. #15
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    Could this being something that Jimbo was talking about the problem being

  16. #16
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    Possibly . Just to be sure your talking about the steering wheel not the wheel on the spindle ?
    Put the laser back on and wiggle the (wheel) watch what happens.

  17. #17
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    Yeah its the steering wheel. The wheels and spindles all are fine when I move the toe doesn't change. If I move the steering wheel it can change up to 1/8. What takes the play out of the steering wheel.

  18. #18
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    Start at the beginning and reread this entire thread.

    Quick and simple clamp it with a vise grip.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by flattop1 View Post
    Start at the beginning and reread this entire thread.

    Quick and simple clamp it with a vise grip.
    THANK YOU! Vise sounds like an easy solution

  20. #20
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    Always had my driver in kart holding steering wheel lightly with left hand tight against the toe lock, set up was easy
    2016 World Formula Modified Tour Champion
    Paid Bob's 4cycle Subscriber

  21. #21
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    Make sure that your heim (rod) ends aren't worn or loose. Also check wheel bearings, king pins and bearings, etc.
    Make sure you are snugging the tie rod jam nuts each time you check as well.
    The more wear/slop that there is in these items, the more frustrating aligning your chassis will become.
    Make sure that the pin in your toe lock fits snug -- I've seen some that didn't fit tight = problems.

    Having your driver hold a bit of tension on the wheel (the same direction and tension every time) will go a long way to getting consistent readings as well.


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  22. #22
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    I honestly think your over thinking this whole thing. From brand new karts to used they all have a tad of play in them, which is enough to see with any laser. Set one side, roll kart back and forth, make sure itís good, switch to other side and do the same. If I spent that much time on toe, Iíd start drinking....

  23. #23
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    I had a fair deal of slop in my frt end after one race. I didn't notice it much before we raced it but it had some. After running it i took it apart and put some calipers on the bolts going through the vertical through the spindles(not sure of proper term). They were .002 smaller than other bolts i had of the same size. Replaced them and dang near all slop was gone, i was ready to replace the bearings but appears they are ok.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by racinnut15xm View Post
    I had a fair deal of slop in my frt end after one race. I didn't notice it much before we raced it but it had some. After running it i took it apart and put some calipers on the bolts going through the vertical through the spindles(not sure of proper term). They were .002 smaller than other bolts i had of the same size. Replaced them and dang near all slop was gone, i was ready to replace the bearings but appears they are ok.
    Good point. I've seen a lot of chassis come through the shop that had the thread of the bolt inside the heim end. Realize that the thread of a bolt is almost always undersized to the shank of the bolt. Something as simple as what direction the bolt goes through a heim can make a big difference in how much slop there is to the steering. There is a reason that military and aero industry spec a bolt much differently (mostly shank and very little thread) than our local hardware stores.
    FWIW: You can greatly improve much of the hardware you are using on your chassis by simply using a longer bolt, and cutting the threads shorter, so that there's maximum amount of surface area for the shank, and just enough thread for what is required. We did this for many years on our sprint car chassis before some of the newer titanium and mil-spec stuff became more readily available.

  25. #25
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    At Boeing we called this grip length, and we had a simple tool for measuring it then go get the proper bolt. It is hard buying from a bolt company or hardware store.

  26. #26
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    Just had a lite bulb moment.
    Ream the pin hole on the toe lock , with a tapered reamer then use a tapered pin .
    That should take the play out.

  27. #27
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    All good thinking.

    Space between 2 pieces of toe lock must remain the same as when reamed for tapers to fit tightly in both pieces.

    Should eliminate any slop if both tapers are fully engaged.

    The other thought is if only taper reaming 1 piece, more than half the slop can be eliminated.

  28. #28
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    Yea I thought about the locations after posting. Good idea on the reaming the top with a straight bottom.
    Ten thirty two bolt and nut be alot simpler.
    Or set it and forget it
    Last edited by flattop1; 02-13-2019 at 01:47 AM. Reason: Add

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by pdc View Post
    At Boeing we called this grip length, and we had a simple tool for measuring it then go get the proper bolt. It is hard buying from a bolt company or hardware store.
    Depending on which Boeing facility you were at, we may have purchased some surplus hardware (ie floor sweepings) from there just for our race car.

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