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Thread: Connecting rod bolts loose from factory

  1. #1
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    Connecting rod bolts loose from factory

    My predator 212 seized up last weekend. I took apart and found that my connecting rod bolts were not tight from factory. I was able to loose with finger. This caused scaring on the crankshaft and rod bearing. Had to purchase new engine. Just wanted to spread word to check those if u are inside engine.

  2. #2
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    Good idea.
    Loose bolts after a seizure may be a faulty conclusion .

  3. #3
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    When ever I buy an engine I take it all apart and rebuild it my way.

    Sundog

  4. #4
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    What flattop said....
    I bet that they lost tension as the aluminum rod was trying to weld it's self to the crank.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redf4rr View Post
    My predator 212 seized up last weekend. I took apart and found that my connecting rod bolts were not tight from factory. I was able to loose with finger. This caused scaring on the crankshaft and rod bearing. Had to purchase new engine. Just wanted to spread word to check those if u are inside engine.
    take it back ,,,there under warranty.
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  6. #6
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    I hope you didn't run it on the factory shipping oil

  7. #7
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    I have taken apart alot of predator engines and I would say that probably 10 to 20% of the rod bolts are either loose, not torqued to the correct spec, or over torqued. Just depends on which 8 year old puts them together at the plant I guess.

  8. #8
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    Some how I don't think the torque required to loosen a fastner is equal to the torque used when tightening.
    At least not sure it's a reliable way to determine how tight they were.
    Last edited by flattop1; 11-07-2018 at 11:58 PM. Reason: Add
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  9. #9
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    At $35 ea imported with tariff and dock fees...you get what you pay for.
    As someone else suggested....tear it apart and go through it yourself.
    If you are unable to do that, find a friend or pay someone who can.

    If you bought the warranty...just take it back -- they're glad to keep replacing them.


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  10. #10
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    So much for running them outta the box, if I got it apart to check the rod bolts I may as well slide the crank out and polish it and open the rod up a thousandth, take some tension off the rings too.... this is a slippy slope a gateway modification I tell you... your only one step away from buying a hemi motor with a non hemi head from a guy in a van in a seedy alley somewhere..lol

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by OVALTECH1 View Post
    So much for running them outta the box, if I got it apart to check the rod bolts I may as well slide the crank out and polish it and open the rod up a thousandth, take some tension off the rings too.... this is a slippy slope a gateway modification I tell you... your only one step away from buying a hemi motor with a non hemi head from a guy in a van in a seedy alley somewhere..lol
    if you don't the guy you are running against is

  12. #12
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    ^^ Isn't that what most are doing already?

  13. #13
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    Why stop there?
    Why not bore it out, put in a cam, mill the head, put in a billet rod, etc?
    B FASTER

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbone View Post
    I have taken apart alot of predator engines and I would say that probably 10 to 20% of the rod bolts are either loose, not torqued to the correct spec, or over torqued. Just depends on which 8 year old puts them together at the plant I guess.
    Are these Dyno Cams or EC Predators, or are they Harbor Freight?

  15. #15
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    when I get engines from "others" ie: I don't buy harbor freight engines, I request them unassembled ... and I would assume anyone here who races has never seriously raced an out of the box engine as received from some giant retailer... IMHO this thread topic is more like what you see on a predator facebook page where they explain how to tell the difference between a hemi and non hemi from harbor freight...

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redf4rr View Post
    My predator 212 seized up last weekend. I took apart and found that my connecting rod bolts were not tight from factory. I was able to loose with finger. This caused scaring on the crankshaft and rod bearing. Had to purchase new engine. Just wanted to spread word to check those if u are inside engine.
    Just wanted to add I have never NOT been able to save a crank where the rod seized.. 99% chance with a clean/polished crank and a gasket set and a new rod you could have had a better engine than what you started with...

  17. #17
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    If you deal with a real race motor that spins at 9000 or more rpms and someone does something stupid and the rod seizes to the crank you ain't going to clean up the crank. You would be foolish to even try.
    However, it's easy to get the rod off the crank if there is anything left of it. In fact, the block crank cam, and cylinder will be reduced to a mixture of aluminum, iron and steel. If the piston hit the head or valves that is also usually junk. Often times the flywheel key has also sheared and the flywheel is welded to the crank. It will take you a long time and lots of effort to get the flywheel off and when you do you will usually throw the crank and the flywheel in the dumpster. with the rest of the junk.
    B FASTER

  18. #18
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    No worries if that predator blows at 9 k .
    All you need is a dust pan!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ponytl View Post
    when I get engines from "others" ie: I don't buy harbor freight engines, I request them unassembled ... and I would assume anyone here who races has never seriously raced an out of the box engine as received from some giant retailer... IMHO this thread topic is more like what you see on a predator facebook page where they explain how to tell the difference between a hemi and non hemi from harbor freight...
    It is called the "Beginners" forum.

  20. #20
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    I've never worked on a predator but a lot of v8 and engine mods. What's it take to check the rod bolts? Just remove a few bolts to pop the side of the case off, loosen the two rod bolts and use a torque wrench. It's one gasket that you would have to replace?

  21. #21
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    ^ And you'd do well to put some blue Loctite on the sidecover bolt threads while you were at it.
    Just sayin.'

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimbo View Post
    If you deal with a real race motor that spins at 9000 or more rpms and someone does something stupid and the rod seizes to the crank you ain't going to clean up the crank. You would be foolish to even try.
    However, it's easy to get the rod off the crank if there is anything left of it. In fact, the block crank cam, and cylinder will be reduced to a mixture of aluminum, iron and steel. If the piston hit the head or valves that is also usually junk. Often times the flywheel key has also sheared and the flywheel is welded to the crank. It will take you a long time and lots of effort to get the flywheel off and when you do you will usually throw the crank and the flywheel in the dumpster. with the rest of the junk.
    Ain't no out of the box Predator turning anything close to 9000rpm anyway!! One can assume from this post that we are talking about out of the box motors spinning a max of 5800-6000.

  23. #23
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    Duh. Ya think?
    What do you expect when you have some Chinese person working for a $1.00 a day?
    You get what you pay for. A $39.95 race engine.
    Me thinks you better put more than locktite on the side cover bolts.
    B FASTER

  24. #24
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    I get in this argument all the time about "out of the box" .... Traveling 10 hours next weekend to race... No way I would do that without knowing my rod bolts are tight.

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