i am building a 3 inch bore animal it has a 150 flat head stroker crank and will have a billet head. it will be raced on dirt what carb would you guys recomend. thanks for any help

Nothing smaller than a HL380.
What size intake valve are you running?

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hw11aa or the bigger hw12aa works well when tricked out alittle
But I agree with Mini.. the 380 is hard too beat,, also hard too fine..
I'm always looking for new ones untouched ..and its a task

i plan to run the head from belmit development . still waiting to hear back from him with all the specs. so what ever size vavles those heads come with

380's work nice... got 2 here, wont be getting rid of them any time soon

from what every one says those are hard to come by. are there any other good options.

If your getting the Animal head from Belmit you can't run anything smaller than the HR181. 33mm bore, not sure what sizes the new HW tilly's are but the HR181 is already proven.

Hope your block has a deck extension with that crank in it.

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Bench racing is the fastest sport known to man. But it never get's anything done.

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yes it has a deck extion on it. and really i was thinking about a lectron carb like a 32mm how would that work

does that head really come with 1.5 rockers if so i need a new cam i think

HW12A is a 34 mm Billit tilly.. very nice piece.. I have one fixed up on a 1/2 intake ready for a big head.. Just no time.. so I will let it go for 400.00 I have that in the carb alone..

Belmit would make the rocker ratio anyway you want. but I told him the 1.5 ratio is a much better ratio to have than the 2.0 ratio they had at first.

This way your cam can stay small, and you have a much better choice to choose from. Like the anything from .270"-.310" lift. there are many cams that fit within that area.

I have one of those heads myself as you should already know. And they flow a "TON" of air. If you where to install a HL380 tilly on it, it would just be hurting the flow a lot. Basically choking it down like a restrictor.

The bigger head I have flows well over 200cfm, so the version you have should flow right around 200cfm @.500" lift.

Something to thinking about on your cam and carb selection. Also the bigger you make your motor the better for the head.

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Bench racing is the fastest sport known to man. But it never get's anything done.

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i already have my cam. its a an-mod1 by dyno cams. the lift is 308 so with a 1.5 rocker it will be 460 about do you think that will be to much.

do you think you could email me pics of the carb. i am interested but i would just like to see a couple pics. matttosti@hotmail.com thank you

and one other thing i am strugling with is what would you guys recomend for a ignition system. does the msd stuff work pretty good

Stock PVL coil would work just fine either the stock wheel or the ARC wheel.

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Picture of one on EC site, I have the intake and its drilled for a large bore ALKY ohv head.. ready too rock.

You should be just fine with that much lift as long as your valves don't hit the piston. Your motor is basically the size of a 305, it will like the extra air.

__________________
Bench racing is the fastest sport known to man. But it never get's anything done.

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just curious if built right do you think this motor can make 35 hp.

and also i plan to cut valve releifs if need be.

Yep, pretty easy, 300cc's
I don't think you will have to cut valve reliefs, but it will be close. The combustion chamber is small for the valve sizes you will have so your compression doesn't fall off.

You can always change head gasket thickness.

__________________
Bench racing is the fastest sport known to man. But it never get's anything done.

Stop talking about it, and be about it! MDB

okay well i will cut the valve releifs if i have to. what kind of rpm do you think its safe to turn with this motor i was planning to keep it under 9k should that be fine

It depends on who's dyno.
Lots of people inflate their dyno numbers. Some more than others.
Some don't even have a dyno and just throw out numbers.
In my opinion 35 HP is a strech.

I used the new Tillotson HW-14AA on the last one I built. That motor would fly ! This carb has a 1.125" bore and a 1" venturi. It is calibrated properly for alcohol and the fuel curve is very nice.
Mike

i am not searching for numbers i more just want a base line to work with. my plan was to talk to rlv and see if they would dyno it cause i dont know of anyone else around here

so would the hw 12 or 14 be better for this motor

Haven't built a big bore yet but I wonder; why are you guys stuck on the tilly? I've run a lot of 2 stroke shifter karts and we always use the Mikuni or Keihin slides preferably the PWK or PJ 35 mm (1-3/4" bore) with a pump around system. Never built one for alky but can't be that hard.

Just curious.....

Carbs that need a jet block are junk to me for racing. I use to deal with Mikuni's everyday at work for years. I told myself I would never run one again.

The motor should make about 35hp. One of the most common dynoed motors is the stroker Animal at 238cc. Even years ago people where getting 24-26hp from them. With a very simple combo. .356" cam, 1.250"/1.125" big valve head, and 28mm carb.

Now since things has progessed over the years. 100 more CFM in head flow, 60 more CC's, bigger 33mm carb, and .400"+ lift at the valve. I don't see why there isn't a 10hp gain in power over the old stuff??

__________________
Bench racing is the fastest sport known to man. But it never get's anything done.

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them more i am starting to hear from people the more i am wondering if this motor is even going to live long enough to be worth it.

There is always the point of diminishing returns, these engines are probably close.

The weak link is the crank. You need to use the best billet crank available and that one should be supported on both outbnoard ends.
A jack shaft is also a good idea.

what is the best billet crank you can get. cause i have a arc cause i thought that was the best

There are two different ARC billet cranks. Make sure you have the better one.
Just keep in mind that this crank was originally made for a flathead with low compression and poor flow and a bore of 2.562"
Now you are going to use it for a 3" bore high compression engine with much better flow. Probably at least twice the HP of the flat head.

I'm in the process of making my own billet cranks just for this motor.

Part of the problem has to be with running the PVL flywheel on the end of the crank. I built two 3" ARC stroker briggs WF's for 2 brothers that kart race in either SC, or NC, not sure. Neither one has broke the crank with the 3hp flywheel. But I remember Bear was breaking the cranks with the PVL. I told him I wasn't having a problem with the 3hp flywheels, but ignored it. So now there spending $200 more on the crank, and another $200 for the bearing support.

No bearing support, and 3-disc clutches on the crank. These was the cheaper $279 chromoly crank.

Also there is many drag motors out here, none of which has broken a ARC crank. High compression, big bores, billet heads, and the cheaper $279 chromoly crank.

Get the weight off the flywheel, and run.

Also a much better stronger block is the briggs model 15. Jimbo sells them, if you don't already have the block. After that the billet block is next.

__________________
Bench racing is the fastest sport known to man. But it never get's anything done.

Stop talking about it, and be about it! MDB